fattea2220
Oklahoma Chapter VP,
For those of you who haven't installed any long tubes before here is a some what detailed list of how to perform the install, I can't provide pictures with this because I did take any while installing them, but Im not gonna lie its a pain in the ass. It took me arount 10 hours to do the install from start to finish. You need help so get a buddy for this install. I installed pacesetter long tubes on my car. I will give a list of steps on how to perform this install
1. remove the battery and battery box, while you are here unplug the O2 sensor by the fire wall
2. remove the intake, if you have CIA or stock get rid of it.
3. Next you need to remove the steering bar on the drivers side, What you do is turn your steering wheel to a 90 turn to the left the bottom of the steering wheel will point exactly to the passenger side door what this does is aligns the bolt that holds the steering bar facing up so you can get a socket with at least 12 inches of extention on the bolt. Remove the bolt, make sure you tie up your steering wheel so it doesn't move, this can damage the springs in the wheel. I tied mine off to the emergency brake
4. Jack the car up as high as you and put stands underneath
5. Remove the Stock H pipe and cat set up this requires a 15MM deepwell socket and a U joint up by the stock manifords, next 15MM socket at the mid pipe connection on the band clamps, smack these back with a hammer and the rear pipes will drop
6. Underneath the car, you have to remove the rest of the steering bar, make sure you mark the bar down there so putting it back in wont be so hard to remember. remove the bolt, on the other side remove the starter with the 3 bolt holding it.
7. Go inside the car underneath the dash behind your pedals in the steer bar from the inside unbolt the 2 bolts on the firewall that keeps the bar from moving. then pull the bar in the car this will let the steering bar from the outside of the car come apart.
8. Unbolt the motor mount, doesn't matter what side you do first, if you start on the driver side, unbolt that side completely, and loosen the other side but don't take off all the way. This will prevent the motor from going and drifting on you. Just leave a few threads on the passenger side
9. Get a piece of wood and place it under the oil pan you are going to need to jack the motor up until the motor mount clears the bolt you just took off. Leave the engine up
10. Remove the motor mount bracket in the way, 4 bolts, also remove the oil dipstick, it is one bolt right above the manifold bolts.
11. Remove the manifold studs and bolts, Just a heads up if you plan on replacing your manifold studs not all of them will fit with the new headers, I had to use replacement bolts, the size is M8 25MM length for the replacement bolts. Liquid wrench helps!
12. Install new headers. It is ok to leave some studs in it will fit on there if they are left in. I reused my stock manifold bolts, You may have to let the motor down a bit to get the headers to fit then you can raise the motor back up again.
13. Install the steering bar back before you move to the other side, make sure you put the motor mount bracket back, before moving to the other side put the motor mount bolt back on just a few threads and take the other side off. then go to the other side
14 Remove the other stock manifold, the passenger side is much easier, there is nothing really in the way.
15. Install new headers on this side,
16. Reinstall starter
17. Put your mid pipe together before you attach them to the long tubes, it is much easier this way
18. Word to the wise, the passenger side O2 upstream sensor will not reach they tell you it does, I extended the original sensor myself with wire from Orielly's. Its up to you if you think this is ok, I know that mine will be fine. You will also need the O2 extension kit for the rear O2 sensors these work. But for some reason the drivers side upstream O2 does reach. weird.....
19. Next put your stuff back together on the top end tighten the motor mounts, make sure everything is buttoned up. and enjoy!!
20. IT is worth the install. Its around 20- 25 rwhp gain, My car is way faster!! Enjoy!!
If you guys have any questions let me know.
Matt
Oklahoma City VP
1. remove the battery and battery box, while you are here unplug the O2 sensor by the fire wall
2. remove the intake, if you have CIA or stock get rid of it.
3. Next you need to remove the steering bar on the drivers side, What you do is turn your steering wheel to a 90 turn to the left the bottom of the steering wheel will point exactly to the passenger side door what this does is aligns the bolt that holds the steering bar facing up so you can get a socket with at least 12 inches of extention on the bolt. Remove the bolt, make sure you tie up your steering wheel so it doesn't move, this can damage the springs in the wheel. I tied mine off to the emergency brake
4. Jack the car up as high as you and put stands underneath
5. Remove the Stock H pipe and cat set up this requires a 15MM deepwell socket and a U joint up by the stock manifords, next 15MM socket at the mid pipe connection on the band clamps, smack these back with a hammer and the rear pipes will drop
6. Underneath the car, you have to remove the rest of the steering bar, make sure you mark the bar down there so putting it back in wont be so hard to remember. remove the bolt, on the other side remove the starter with the 3 bolt holding it.
7. Go inside the car underneath the dash behind your pedals in the steer bar from the inside unbolt the 2 bolts on the firewall that keeps the bar from moving. then pull the bar in the car this will let the steering bar from the outside of the car come apart.
8. Unbolt the motor mount, doesn't matter what side you do first, if you start on the driver side, unbolt that side completely, and loosen the other side but don't take off all the way. This will prevent the motor from going and drifting on you. Just leave a few threads on the passenger side
9. Get a piece of wood and place it under the oil pan you are going to need to jack the motor up until the motor mount clears the bolt you just took off. Leave the engine up
10. Remove the motor mount bracket in the way, 4 bolts, also remove the oil dipstick, it is one bolt right above the manifold bolts.
11. Remove the manifold studs and bolts, Just a heads up if you plan on replacing your manifold studs not all of them will fit with the new headers, I had to use replacement bolts, the size is M8 25MM length for the replacement bolts. Liquid wrench helps!
12. Install new headers. It is ok to leave some studs in it will fit on there if they are left in. I reused my stock manifold bolts, You may have to let the motor down a bit to get the headers to fit then you can raise the motor back up again.
13. Install the steering bar back before you move to the other side, make sure you put the motor mount bracket back, before moving to the other side put the motor mount bolt back on just a few threads and take the other side off. then go to the other side
14 Remove the other stock manifold, the passenger side is much easier, there is nothing really in the way.
15. Install new headers on this side,
16. Reinstall starter
17. Put your mid pipe together before you attach them to the long tubes, it is much easier this way
18. Word to the wise, the passenger side O2 upstream sensor will not reach they tell you it does, I extended the original sensor myself with wire from Orielly's. Its up to you if you think this is ok, I know that mine will be fine. You will also need the O2 extension kit for the rear O2 sensors these work. But for some reason the drivers side upstream O2 does reach. weird.....
19. Next put your stuff back together on the top end tighten the motor mounts, make sure everything is buttoned up. and enjoy!!
20. IT is worth the install. Its around 20- 25 rwhp gain, My car is way faster!! Enjoy!!
If you guys have any questions let me know.
Matt
Oklahoma City VP
