(NW)Drake
who said that getting old sucks :-P
if it is a stretched timing chain it wouldnt go away like cwo said with my vacuum leak theory
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IM SO FREAKING LOST, IM PULLING MY HAIR OUT
- Thread starter (NW)Drake
- Start date
if it is a stretched timing chain it wouldnt go away like cwo said with my vacuum leak theory
(NW)Drake
who said that getting old sucks :-P
with the burning rich its always doing this the popping sound only happens if i dont let it idle for several minuets if it is clear tomorrow im going to get a video of my car starting up and running and i will also show you what happens sometimes.
DrunkFatguy
Well-Known Member
Posting the Vid will give us a better Idea of what is going on, Don't give up on finding this pain in the Arse problem!!
If the popping sound is coming from your exhaust, that's due to your car running so rich.
(NW)Drake
who said that getting old sucks :-P
so guys i replaced my maf and it still has the same problems. so next step is the vacuum lines im replacing them as soon as they come im getting them off ebay on friday i need someone to help me install them cuz its gonna be a bitch, i most likely am going to have to take off the upper intake to do so. so its going take awhile anyone got any ideas on this?
we can do it here at my house
Just saw this post.. Drake.. What year mustang? Sorry trying to catch up..
O.k. dumb question here, but I saw you replaced the TPS sensor. Did you set the voltage? Why haven't you pulled some sparkplugs? Have you cleaned the salt n pepper connectors with electronic cleaner? If none of that works try pulling the o2 sensor wires off and tie them up. Drive it and see if it is still happening.
Drake, this guy is really good. Take his advice. I know that the TPS voltage has been set, but the salt and pepper is a good idea and the O2 sensor pull should have been done long ago.
(NW)Drake
who said that getting old sucks :-P
Replaced them and i cleaned the salt n peppers
I know that you replaced them already from reading the thread. Unplug them and make sure the wires don't get burnt, so tie them up away from the exhaust. Drive the car and see if it still happens.
Drake Liston to Orange and see what the car does. Then post up about it. I would be more than happy to wrench on your car. Its easier if we know what we are looking for though or trying to replace.
Any word on this car? Does this car have long tube headers? Does it have an adjustable FPR? Have you tried unplugging the O2's yet? Does this car have cats on it? After all of the parts were swapped/cleaned was the computer reset?
I just went back and read the original post and saw that you in fact have long tubes. When exactly did this start happening and what was the last mod you did to the car before this started? Sorry if I missed it, but does this happen only when cold, only when hot or both?
Orange, this is a cold car issue. Like you, I'm interested how the car operates with the O2 sensors unplugged and yes he has been reseting the computer.
Did this happen after the long tubes were installed?
My guess is that the O2's are not reading correctly because they are about 12" farther back (not as hot) than with shorties. This is a common problem people see when using long tube headers. Since the O2's are cold the O2's probably seeing a higher content of oxygen. When that happens the computer will throw more fuel.
If he unplugs the O2's and the problem goes away then you may have your answer.
If he unplugs the O2's and the problem goes away then you may have your answer.
(NW)Drake
who said that getting old sucks :-P
The burning rich is not what im concerned withits always done that even before i replaced them. And after i replaced them it was several mths after when the popping sound started. I've been looking at other sites for mustangs lately and as of recently I've been getting my canister purge valve code comming up and I've noticed that the tank no longer hisses anymore when i remove my gas cap. It also has a non vented cap on it so if that system was working right it should hiss. So im going skip the hose kit and replace what the dtc is telling me see if that is the problem. I will also unplug the o2s and see what happens. Any input on the canister purge valve replacement pls let me know. It would be faster for someone to text or call me about it my number ks 3604704956 i have Verizon if anyone is worried about min useage or text usage
(NW)Drake
who said that getting old sucks :-P
ok so i threw on a afr meter and its only hooked up to one o2 sensor so im going to buy a multi selector switch to switch between the 2 but as of right now its burning rich atleast on one side
It wouldn't hurt to either get some hose pinch pliers and start checking lines or just start replacing the 20yr old vacuum lines that are on there.