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For Sale: 1994 Mustang Cobra (<50k miles, >400 RWHP)

sc94cobra

Well-Known Member
I have finally decided to sell my Super Charged Mustang Cobra. I bought the car in Oct 1998 with about 19k miles on it, and have only added 30k miles in 12 years. It was on non-op for a number of those years. I have had it smogged and registered for the last two years and maybe put 500 miles on it. I am ready for a new project car.

Price: $10,500 OBO

Quick specs:
Location San Diego, CA
1994 Mustang Cobra
Red Exterior
Black Leather Interior
5-Speed Manual Transmission
49,9xx miles
~455 RWHP
~445 RWTQ

Dyno Shootout 2001 probably had about about 35k-37k miles on the clock.
http://www.wickedstangsperformanceshop.com/PhotoArchive/Photogallery/DYNO2001.html

Engine:
Bored 30 over
Ross/Nowak N400 pistons
main stud girdle
Crane 2030 cam (smog legal)
Trick Flow twisted edge heads with polished bowls, port matching
Crain Roller Rocker arms - 1.6 ratio
36 lbs injectors
Vortec FMU
EFI Systems piggy back systems

Super Charger:
ProCharger P600B with 14lb pulley
3-row intercooler

Drive Train:
3.27 ring gear
Eibach Lowering Springs
Tubular rear control arms
Bilstein shocks (were on the car when I bought it)

Interior:
For a 16 year old car it is really good. There is one small rub mark in the middle of the driver seat not a hole, and the driver side mat could be replaced but other then that there are no issues.

There are more details.....

What it _needs_ is a new set of tires. The tires that are on there have been on the car for a while and while they have plenty of rubber they are old and not as sticky as they use to be, or my foot is heavier than it was when I drove it more regularly.

Things I would do if I were to keep it:
  • Castor/Camber plates.
  • Find a strut tower bar for the front (aftermarket or original) for some reason the previous owner took it off.
  • It has a panhard bar installed, but the bottom link on the passenger side of the axle broke the weld (twice). It is a bad design, or a ok design with a bad implementation. It can be fixed with about 2-3 inches heavy wall tube taped to accept the 5/8-inch bolt, a grinder and someone with a welder (Tig is probably better)
  • Stereo - suffers from alternator whine. Not sure if it is a bad ground or resistor somewhere. It should be a easily fixed issue.
engine.JPG front_left.JPG front_left2.JPG interior.JPG odometer.JPG
 
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