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quest for improved 60ft and et

MUSTANGO2GT

If u aint 1st, your last
#21
I have more work ahead of me with a lot more practice. It was my first time getting my tires warm and getting traction without bogging. Need to get out on the track more and make some changes. Can't wait to get back out there. That run in the video is my best 60ft to date with 1.83.
 
#22
I don't know what you are looking for here. You asked for help. Help arrived and you get all defensive? The car is too low to the ground and you will never get any weight transfer. Especially since at the BBQ I told you to disconnect your sway bar, but you asked a couple other people if it would make a difference. They said to do it and you still chose not too. Removing the sway bar alone would probably get you into the 1.7's.

Silver fox is right about the tires too. I have never run a MT slick more than 13psi. Most of the time my tires have always like 11-12psi. You should have left the struts on full loose and only played with the shocks until you found out what worked best and then adjust the front to see if it makes a difference.

Don't get all butt hurt. You asked for help, so listen to the advice and good things just might happen.
 
2

2K7GTCS

Guest
#23
I'm going to be setting my car up for the next month or 2 for stictly drag racing...I'm on a mission.
Sounds like a good plan. From studying the video, I am seeing a couple of things...

Observations
It seems the tires are slipping on the initial hit, but then grab nicely. This is exactly why you run the bias ply on a manual car; they are more forgiving and will recover from a little spin.
The other thing is the unmistakable "bounce" of the rear suspension, and the subsequent weight transfer to the front tires. Clearly the chassis and suspension are very stiff, which seems to be causing the car to porpoise, or rock, between loading and unloading the rear tires. The line-lock definitely helped to get the tires warmer/stickier. But now that the tires are working better, the suspension (which by all accounts is fantastic in the twisty's) is showing its weakness for controlling the body under hard acceleration. The "bog" you are feeling in the car is more likely to be the effect of weight transfer rocking back then forward, like a wave, killing your momentum from the initial hit.

Recommendations
The softer rear springs will help, as will raising the front ride height. I'm unsure about the correct shock settings, typically you just start with them in the middle, and then adjust from there.

Tire Pressure & Launch RPM
You'll want to consider these two items to be "tune-able" to specific track conditions. This is true for both tire pressure, and the launch rpm. There is no one constant perfect value to be used here under all circumstances.
You have a baseline or start point, but again, this should be in the middle of a range. It is tough to be consistent, especially when track conditions change so dramatically during the course of the day. What works good in the morning will probably not work as well in the afternoon.
My guess is, once you have better body control, the RPM needed to launch the car will probably be in the more typical 3500 to 4500 rpm range. You may also find the tires will work better with a little less pressure.

Conclusion
I highly recommend that as you discover the best drag setup for your car, to limit your changes to only one thing at a time. And, keep a very detailed journal of all variables for each pass.
 

93slvrfox

Well-Known Member
#24
Sounds like a good plan. From studying the video, I am seeing a couple of things...

Observations
It seems the tires are slipping on the initial hit, but then grab nicely. This is exactly why you run the bias ply on a manual car; they are more forgiving and will recover from a little spin.
The other thing is the unmistakable "bounce" of the rear suspension, and the subsequent weight transfer to the front tires. Clearly the chassis and suspension are very stiff, which seems to be causing the car to porpoise, or rock, between loading and unloading the rear tires. The line-lock definitely helped to get the tires warmer/stickier. But now that the tires are working better, the suspension (which by all accounts is fantastic in the twisty's) is showing its weakness for controlling the body under hard acceleration. The "bog" you are feeling in the car is more likely to be the effect of weight transfer rocking back then forward, like a wave, killing your momentum from the initial hit.

Recommendations
The softer rear springs will help, as will raising the front ride height. I'm unsure about the correct shock settings, typically you just start with them in the middle, and then adjust from there.

Tire Pressure & Launch RPM
You'll want to consider these two items to be "tune-able" to specific track conditions. This is true for both tire pressure, and the launch rpm. There is no one constant perfect value to be used here under all circumstances.
You have a baseline or start point, but again, this should be in the middle of a range. It is tough to be consistent, especially when track conditions change so dramatically during the course of the day. What works good in the morning will probably not work as well in the afternoon.
My guess is, once you have better body control, the RPM needed to launch the car will probably be in the more typical 3500 to 4500 rpm range. You may also find the tires will work better with a little less pressure.

Conclusion
I highly recommend that as you discover the best drag setup for your car, to limit your changes to only one thing at a time. And, keep a very detailed journal of all variables for each pass.
This was all mentioned. At the end of the day he's going to have to realize that drag racing is a science/art and all based off of experience and seat time.
 

MUSTANGO2GT

If u aint 1st, your last
#25
This thread was was created to let all know what I was going to do in the next 2 months and what changes I was going to make to help my car luanch qnd where I could acquire some parts. I got all bent out of shape bc I know my rear suspension is to stiff and I know I need different springs. Silverfox is telling me that I'm quick to blame my suspension. I wasn't asking how to launch my car and I'm sorry for getting mad silverfox but I know I need suspension mods. Installing rear spring is easy and takes a couple hours. I know my front sway bar needs to be removed but due to unforseen event that happend on friday I didn't think I was going to race. After getting my car fix I got lazy and never got to the sway bar but is part of the few things I'm going to change.

Next time I get out there I will lower my tire pressure and play with my rpms. Like I said before it was my first time with getting decent traction and need to improve on my launching skills.
 

93slvrfox

Well-Known Member
#26
No harm no foul brother. All I think everyone was trying to say is tweak that things that you have already on the car rather than spend money on parts. I have stock springs in my car right now. What I do Is I soften up the shocks some in the back so that they give when I am at the track. Day to day I have the back right set at 6 and the back left set at five. I fronts I believe have set to five as well. That keeps the front end from floating when I am on the interstate doing 75-80 mph. However when I track the car I soften them up significantly so that they will help transfer the weight to the rear. The fact that your car is lowered doesn't help but it doesn't kill you. Those Bias Bly tires are great and a hell of alot better than the drag radials because they have a ton morer give and are alot more forgicing on the launch. Unfortunately Saturday wasn't the greatest for Test Tune since everyone was out there so you had to wait over 2 hours between runs.
 
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