Crazy Idle,help!!

[Gawthle]

What is all that crap for? If you don't need it remove it. Looks like an alarm system, Which probably doesnt work anymore. Right

no, the alarm andkeyless entry still work

well...theres:

an alarm
re-wired flasher relay ( i dunno why)
the thick red wire is for an amp
that fuse top right is for the alarm, i think
the two relays are for the door solenoids (lock unlock) for the alarm


most everything else, i have no clue

theres a few plugs just dangling without another matching male or female plug around, dunno what happened there....but thats why i said everything looked fine with my neutral saftey switch. its plugged in way up there, and must be depressed to start the car. beyond that, not i got no idea whats up

 

[Gawthle]

Here are a couple of things I noticed.

the tops broken? lol i assume i should go to kragen and get a new one? and how do i set it exactly? i need to be walked through that one

and i need four? where do i go to fix that problem? or does it need to be fixed?

 

[beejay31000]

if its a ford recall they should fix it. and to set the TPS, you need to loosen up the two screws just though to twist the sensor a little bit. then put the multimeter into the wire (i think its the red one, ask emilio) and rotate the sensor until you get the correct reading. you might need to drill the holes a little bigger to allow it to rotate more. when you have the right reading tighten it all down and test it again when tight to ensure it stayed in the right position

 

[Gawthle]

if its a ford recall they should fix it. and to set the TPS, you need to loosen up the two screws just though to twist the sensor a little bit. then put the multimeter into the wire (i think its the red one, ask emilio) and rotate the sensor until you get the correct reading. you might need to drill the holes a little bigger to allow it to rotate more. when you have the right reading tighten it all down and test it again when tight to ensure it stayed in the right position

so what, just cruise to a Ford dealer and be like "hey, you....fix this"? never done a recall of any sort, haha.

dude...i dunno how im testing it. does the key just need to be on or engine running?

 

[beejay31000]

engine running i beleive

 

[orange395w]

"Check out this video.. Very Important.. Fix Code 67
For those of you out there that didn't believe the importance of the neutral switches circuit (failure code 67) for a proper idle control, prevent the infamous rolling/surging idle till it stalls condition.
CLICK HERE FOR VIDEO"

Wow my car has that problem. Emilio you need to come over and we'll fix it over a few cold ones! Give me a call this week end.

 

[wickedstangs]

"Check out this video.. Very Important.. Fix Code 67
For those of you out there that didn't believe the importance of the neutral switches circuit (failure code 67) for a proper idle control, prevent the infamous rolling/surging idle till it stalls condition.
CLICK HERE FOR VIDEO"

Wow my car has that problem. Emilio you need to come over and we'll fix it over a few cold ones! Give me a call this week end.

Hey I am working on two cars in the morning your welcome to come over.
Saturday Morning 8:00am 69 Dodge Dart
Saturday Morning 9:10am 05 BMW

Maybe a little early for cold ones.. NOT we can BAR-B-Q later.

 

[wickedstangs]

Here's some more pics to help you out GAWTHLE

Make Sure these are good very important.

 

[wickedstangs]

so what, just cruise to a Ford dealer and be like "hey, you....fix this"? never done a recall of any sort, haha.

dude...i dunno how im testing it. does the key just need to be on or engine running?

Here is something I found that might be of interest to you.

10-pin Connector Fix

The “ten pin” connectors are these salt and pepper shaker looking things found at the back of 5.0L engines -between the intake manifold and firewall. These connectors are notorious for developing poor connections and causing strange EEC quirks, like idle fluctuations, intermittent drivability problems, and unexplainable diagnostic codes to be triggered.


Ford issued a recalled on 3/27/1992 #91E19 just for this problem, and created an “extension harness”, assuming the original harness was too short causing the large connectors to pull apart. The real cure for this problem is cleaning and re-shaping the electrical terminals inside the connectors. You should consider doing this as preventative maintenance even if you don’t have problems.

Always start by checking the basics: pulling computer diagnostic codes, vacuum leaks, fuel pressure, Cap & Rotor, Plug wires, spark plugs, and throttle position sensor voltage.


Disconnect the negative battery cable! To open the connectors squeeze the four side clips and pull apart. Do not pry the clips apart as with other connectors. Inside you will find ten male and female terminals.

First use a small pick to slightly squeeze the female terminals closed.

Then spread the male terminals open just slightly. This will ensure a complete electrical contact.

Before reassembly take some spray electrical contact cleaner and clean the male and female connectors. Then fill the female terminals with dielectric grease to prevent corrosion.

This problem is not isolated to the salt and pepper 10-pin connectors. The EGR sensor has a history of this problem, and many other Ford connectors. This is a regular maintenance repair you should plan on doing to your aging high mileage Ford.

 

[Gawthle]

ok

so i cleaned the salt n peppa shakers, cleaned a few other connections as well, while i was in there. they all looked like they were in very good condition, no improvement in perfomance

i also didnt mess with the TPS because i was unclear on how exactly i adjust it, so rather than tweak it even more i just left it for now;also i didnt know if i had to replace it because the top was broken off.

i re-checked my codes annnnd this is the list, i now have :-(

key on engine off
21
67
82
monetary, or momentary, or whatever its called
51

key on engine running
21
94
44

ugh, this is so frustrating. my hats off to you guys that have the patience to deal with computerS!

 

[wickedstangs]

key on engine off
21 ECT out of self test range 0.3 to 3.7 volts.
67 Neutral safety circuit failure.
82 Air management 1 circuit failure (AM1/TAB)

monetary, or momentary, or whatever its called
51 ECT sensor signal is greater than the Self-Test maximum of 4.6 volts.

key on engine running
21 ECT out of self test range 0.3 to 3.7 volts.
94 Thermactor Air Injection system inoperative (left side)
44 Thermactor Air Injection system inoperative (Right side)

Check out your Sensors Below Looks Like Fault Codes 82,94,44

 

[Windveil Blues]

Looks like Walt Disney threw up...

Jim

 

[beejay31000]

lol

 

[Gawthle]

Check out your Sensors Below Looks Like Fault Codes 82,94,44

the sensors look to be in good conition, cleaned the terminals, made sure they're mounted properly. i dont know how to actually test that they are working, tho

 

[Gawthle]

Emilio, i'm just gonna take my car and a couple cases of boose over to your pad and see what we can stir up

 

[beejay31000]

that sounds like fun...can i join??

 

[wickedstangs]

sweet party at my house....

 

[beejay31000]

when youall doing this

 

[Gawthle]

dunno. up to him, haha

 

[beejay31000]

let me know, because i am in el centro all next week.