Wickedfox Weighs In

[Mach1Marauder]

Hey guys!

Has the nitrous kit actually been ordered? Can it be canceled?

I'll donate noids, lines, jet, get ya some pills, full throttle switch and some fittings. I don't have any spare bottles though. I would have at least two bottles,. Kinda just depends on the size of the shot and the style of racing you're planning on doing.

WHat is the combo this is going on?

 

[wickedstangs]

Hey guys!

Has the nitrous kit actually been ordered? Can it be canceled?

I'll donate noids, lines, jet, get ya some pills, full throttle switch and some fittings. I don't have any spare bottles though. I would have at least two bottles,. Kinda just depends on the size of the shot and the style of racing you're planning on doing.

WHat is the combo this is going on?

I ordered a dry setup can be cancelled. They said its on back order till wed Wed, I called today and they say they should have it in... What do you have?

 

[Mach1Marauder]

I ordered a dry setup can be cancelled. They said its on back order till wed Wed, I called today and they say they should have it in... What do you have?

Emilio
First I need to know what car and combo it's going on, especially since ya ordered a dry set up.
Personally and professionally, I don't really car for dry shot systems.
But I'll see what I can do for you guys.

 

[wickedstangs]

Emilio
First I need to know what car and combo it's going on, especially since ya ordered a dry set up.
Personally and professionally, I don't really car for dry shot systems.
But I'll see what I can do for you guys.

Mach1Marauder, the kit is going on a 1988 Mustang LX we were donated a 1995 Mark VIII with a 4.6L DOHC motor and did the swap. The motor is completely stock, the reason I want to go with a Dry setup is due to all the driver running the car some are new to racing and never ran nitrous before. The motor in the car now will not handle that much of it. The dry setup is good for 100-125 we are going to run 75 max out the hole. We still can go with a wet setup as it is also variable. So anything will do, just a little more to install on the fuel side. More info on the car can be found at www.wickedstangsracing.com

 

[wikedcobra312]

congrats guys, looks great. wish i was in sd.

 

[Mach1Marauder]

Mach1Marauder, the kit is going on a 1988 Mustang LX we were donated a 1995 Mark VIII with a 4.6L DOHC motor and did the swap. The motor is completely stock, the reason I want to go with a Dry setup is due to all the driver running the car some are new to racing and never ran nitrous before. The motor in the car now will not handle that much of it. The dry setup is good for 100-125 we are going to run 75 max out the hole. We still can go with a wet setup as it is also variable. So anything will do, just a little more to install on the fuel side. More info on the car can be found at www.wickedstangsracing.com

I looked at you combo and I have a few pointers, tips and questions.
Please don't take offense if some of my points seem rudimentary to anyone. Since I don't know the experience of anyone, I'll try make points as if there is no experience. This way I won't fail to make valid points that someone may not know.

1. Given different drivers will be piloting this car with some not having experience with nitrous, my first suggestion would be to install a window switch to control the operating range of the nitrous. Two instances when this will become valuable. With a wet system, maintaining velocity is key to keeping the fuel in suspension with the nitrous. The LOWER setting on the window switch will assure that there is enough rpm/velocity is present before the nitrous will operate. Given that this is a auto, the turning on rpm can be lowered since an auto will not load up like a stick can if bogged off the line.
The upper rpm limit is to prevent the nitrous from operating as the engine hits the computer's rpm limiter. The computer will pull fuel and that's not good in either a dry or wet setup. This is also key this this particular set up with the auto tranny and the year of the computer. In the lower gears, wheel spin can easily occur and the computer is very slow. With the rapid rise in rpms, the computer may not be able to command and the tranny actually shift before the engine hits the rev limiter.

2. This vintage of 4V has IMRC plates. As you know this is for switching over from longs runners at low rpms to the short runner configuration at the higher rpms. In running either a dry or wet nitrous set up, these plates need to be removed. This point is far more important in a wet set up naturally given the path the mixture must take on the long runner set up. In a N/A application, this would kill bottom end, but since you'll have nitrous, that point is negated.

3. If the tranny and converter is stock, I would leave the rpm limiter at stock parameters. Any higher limits puts the converter in jeopardy of ballooning. Also, I would refrain from just arbitrarily upping the line pressure to firm up shifts. This will work fine for a while, but will eventually kill the tranny in short fashion if not built to handle it.

4. In the specs it say nothing about the rear suspension. For every tenth gain in the 60ft can mean almost 3 tenth in ET. If you still have stock arms, I can donate my upper and lower control arms when UPR sends me my new suspension. The only things you'll need to do is drill out the holes on the car for the larger bolts and buy or get donated some spherical bushings for the ears on you 8.8 since mine are for a 9in.

5. Also in the rear area, attention needs to be given to the lower and upper arm attachment points. Battle boxes need to be welded in place on the lowers or at least all the seams need to be welded up. All the seams on the upper attachment points need to be welded also. Neglecting these areas can be dangerous and expensive to repair if allowed to fail and rip out.
Axle tubes need to be welded. This can be done with the rear still in the car and the cover removed. Stitch welding is best to prevent warping(weld a bead on one side for a short distance and the on the opposite side of the tube and switch from left to right tube until complete. The best way is in a jig though to help prevent any warpage or correct it if occurs.

6. Tuning: I see that someone has acquired TwEECer for tuning. Hopefully it has improved from the early days and you now have some datalogging ability with the 95 model. If the system is stock, more than likely the MAF transfer won't need adjustment. Proper MAF tuning is key to a consistent running vehicle. SOME tuners adjust the fuel tables to match the commanded A/F. This is a improper way of tuning. The MAF transfer table must be adjusted so that the A/F seen by a wideband if what is commanded.
If you guys don't have a wideband, I have a personal LM-1 that while I really can't give away, I can let it go for $175 shipped if you're interested. A wideband with a bung placed close to the exhaust header or manifold is far more accurate than a sniffer in a tailpipe and no sort of transport delay needs to be dealt with when tuning.

Those are just a few points. There are lots more. Feel free to PM me with any questions or call me. I'll be happy to help in any way I can.

The offer still stands for me supplying the car with as much nitrous components as I have lying around new.

I hope this has been helpful.

 

[Ford1288]

Wow, thanks for all the advice and possible donation. I dont know all the specs myself on the car so I will let you, Emilio, and Todd talk about this.

 

[wickedstangs]

I looked at you combo and I have a few pointers, tips and questions.
Please don't take offense if some of my points seem rudimentary to anyone. Since I don't know the experience of anyone, I'll try make points as if there is no experience. This way I won't fail to make valid points that someone may not know.

1. Given different drivers will be piloting this car with some not having experience with nitrous, my first suggestion would be to install a window switch to control the operating range of the nitrous. Two instances when this will become valuable. With a wet system, maintaining velocity is key to keeping the fuel in suspension with the nitrous. The LOWER setting on the window switch will assure that there is enough rpm/velocity is present before the nitrous will operate. Given that this is a auto, the turning on rpm can be lowered since an auto will not load up like a stick can if bogged off the line.
The upper rpm limit is to prevent the nitrous from operating as the engine hits the computer's rpm limiter. The computer will pull fuel and that's not good in either a dry or wet setup. This is also key this this particular set up with the auto tranny and the year of the computer. In the lower gears, wheel spin can easily occur and the computer is very slow. With the rapid rise in rpms, the computer may not be able to command and the tranny actually shift before the engine hits the rev limiter.

2. This vintage of 4V has IMRC plates. As you know this is for switching over from longs runners at low rpms to the short runner configuration at the higher rpms. In running either a dry or wet nitrous set up, these plates need to be removed. This point is far more important in a wet set up naturally given the path the mixture must take on the long runner set up. In a N/A application, this would kill bottom end, but since you'll have nitrous, that point is negated.

3. If the tranny and converter is stock, I would leave the rpm limiter at stock parameters. Any higher limits puts the converter in jeopardy of ballooning. Also, I would refrain from just arbitrarily upping the line pressure to firm up shifts. This will work fine for a while, but will eventually kill the tranny in short fashion if not built to handle it.

4. In the specs it say nothing about the rear suspension. For every tenth gain in the 60ft can mean almost 3 tenth in ET. If you still have stock arms, I can donate my upper and lower control arms when UPR sends me my new suspension. The only things you'll need to do is drill out the holes on the car for the larger bolts and buy or get donated some spherical bushings for the ears on you 8.8 since mine are for a 9in.

5. Also in the rear area, attention needs to be given to the lower and upper arm attachment points. Battle boxes need to be welded in place on the lowers or at least all the seams need to be welded up. All the seams on the upper attachment points need to be welded also. Neglecting these areas can be dangerous and expensive to repair if allowed to fail and rip out.
Axle tubes need to be welded. This can be done with the rear still in the car and the cover removed. Stitch welding is best to prevent warping(weld a bead on one side for a short distance and the on the opposite side of the tube and switch from left to right tube until complete. The best way is in a jig though to help prevent any warpage or correct it if occurs.

6. Tuning: I see that someone has acquired TwEECer for tuning. Hopefully it has improved from the early days and you now have some datalogging ability with the 95 model. If the system is stock, more than likely the MAF transfer won't need adjustment. Proper MAF tuning is key to a consistent running vehicle. SOME tuners adjust the fuel tables to match the commanded A/F. This is a improper way of tuning. The MAF transfer table must be adjusted so that the A/F seen by a wideband if what is commanded.
If you guys don't have a wideband, I have a personal LM-1 that while I really can't give away, I can let it go for $175 shipped if you're interested. A wideband with a bung placed close to the exhaust header or manifold is far more accurate than a sniffer in a tailpipe and no sort of transport delay needs to be dealt with when tuning.

Those are just a few points. There are lots more. Feel free to PM me with any questions or call me. I'll be happy to help in any way I can.

The offer still stands for me supplying the car with as much nitrous components as I have lying around new.

I hope this has been helpful.

Mach1 these are all very good points and some are being addressed. There are only a select few that know about were and what we are trying to accomplish and it kinda looks like we are in shambles. I am starting a new forum for our race car and will supply you with an entrance pass. So you can bring in all the knowledge to the forefront Again thank you for all the info and help...

 

[Ford1288]

There are only a select few that know about were and what we are trying to accomplish and it kinda looks like we are in shambles.

HUH?

 

[wickedstangs]

There are only a select few that know about were and what we are trying to accomplish and it kinda looks like we are in shambles.

HUH?

In the past young grasshopper it seemed like we didn't know where we were going with our setup modular or pushrod we are slowly making a comeback.. Nothing to get bent out of shape about... Sometimes what is said on forums is not understood. And also because I am always drunk on 2 beers :rofl: I said that incase he as been reading all the past post...

 

[Ford1288]

Ok old wise one, just checking!

 

[Mach1Marauder]

Mach1 these are all very good points and some are being addressed. There are only a select few that know about were and what we are trying to accomplish and it kinda looks like we are in shambles. I am starting a new forum for our race car and will supply you with an entrance pass. So you can bring in all the knowledge to the forefront Again thank you for all the info and help...

NO PROBLEM MAN!

I'm just a gearhead at heart and I love to make or help make cars faster!:rockrockrock: